Radiator shroud to fit the stock style radiator – will be replacing the no name brand fan with a quality flex-a-lite.
Then last night I tackled pulling out the black dash and carpet from the M3 in a Box as I lovingly call the now parts car.
Excuse the mess in my office…
Alright passenger side header install.
Approx time 10 minutes with practice
Tools needed
* Sockets for your starter bolts
* Ratchet
* Long-ish extensions
How to get the stupid thing in?
* Jack up the car as high as possible – this header goes in from below.
* Remove starter.
* Snake header in let it hang on the spark plugs.
* Wiggle the starter back in – make sure your long bolts are already in the starter.
* Tighten starter
* Install header gasket and tighten header bolts.
* Lower car
Needless to say I have NO HEADER FITMENT ISSUES AND EVERYTHING IS THEY WAY IT SHOULD BE!!!! Great job Vorshlag team for taking the time to get your product right!
Talked with a local coating company they wanted to charge me $100 more for my headers then they advertise for the same service on their site…
I then talked with my Uncle-in-Law who is a gun smith/machinist. He was saying that he uses a ceramic coating that works very well on his firearms that he builds. Cerakote high Temp coating – their website states that it is actually for exhaust systems and headers. Seems like a viable option. I am going to call them today and get some more tech info on their product.
Here’s Fritzintn’s 95 M3 with Built S50 turbo, blah, blah, blah, Faster then my LSx M3.
Lazy day at work…
Got off the phone with Cerakote
Here is some tech data and some “tests”
Exterior should be sprayed with this:
http://www.nicindustries.com/images/…a%20111708.pdf
Interior of headers should be flowcoated with this:
http://www.nicindustries.com/images/…uct%20Data.pdf
Tests:
http://www.nicindustries.com/images/…bKII5j2WIDX6m5
http://www.nicindustries.com/images/…bKII5j2WIDX6m5
http://www.nicindustries.com/images/…bKII5j2WIDX6m5
Looking at the pictures I just posted check this out….
If the lines followed the contours of the wheel well it would stay out of the way of the heat. I need to check out Vorshlag’s routing and see what’s up… stay tuned.
Auto Merge Sucks so check back often.
Ok notice Vorshlag’s brake line routing:
It goes along the frame rail and they have heat barrier stuff on the lines as well as header wrap.
Then Scooter’s car:
Passenger side header install
Aprox 15 minutes.
Tools needed.
Jack
Hammer
large prying device
large punch
* Loose Motor Mount
* Place jack under oil pan sump remove pressure from mount
* Knock out bolt
* Raise Motor up 2 to 3 inches.
* Slide header in and start two header bolts.
* Re-position motor and mount.
* Slide bolt back in.
* Tighten down.
Motor at installed height:
Motor mount secured:
Fitment is REALLY good.
The only header bolt that will prove to be interesting is the furtherest one back behind the booster. However it was cake with a ratcheting 13mm wrench.
*BRAKE LINES WILL BE RE-ROUTED*
The real run down of Saturday’s work:
Started off getting the LS6 PCV system installed.
$45 bucks at my local GM dealer – came with gasket and bolts.
Opened her up and BAM! No boss to cut.
Installed:
I didn’t have a clutch alignment tool so I made one… Kind of expensive but I don’t own an LT1…
LS7 Clutch installed
Header Fitment:
The dog next door Pete decided to come by – He’s awesome.
Engine bay prepped ready for the motor to go in for the last time. Everything but the throttle cable is in place – should receive another one in a few days.
Car on the lift ready for the motor:
SUCCESS!
Oh yeah notice the not actually trying to fit the headers in there… I got some grief for that this AM when I walked into the shop!
UPDATE!
I finally got my Mom’s new ride in one piece, doing final panel alignment tonight along with ALL of the STUPID plastic pieces under the hood….
So now the REAL fun begins the first weekend of September!
I also got a new 37 degree flare tool, it works WONDERFULLY! I talked with a local Porsche shop about my brake lines, 37 degree flares, AN fittings, etc on a street/track toy. They said that the brake lines have a coating (as we all know) that should be removed before being flared, and this will allow the bits to slide onto the brake line easily. The said that I should not have any problems what so ever with the 37 degree fittings, stock lines, and AN fittings. In fact they said that it was probably best to go that route with the planned tandem master Cyl.
Brake line question…
I was under the impression that the BMW brake line was 3/16″ brake line… however I have found that this is not the case. YES the ID of the line is indeed 3/16″ however the OD is larger then your standard brake line. The flare tool works because it is so “close” but it does not clamp down as one would expect it to do.
BMW Brake line taken from the e36 M3 parts car, ID and OD confirmed to be the same.
Standard 3/16 brake line fitting to 3AN fittings.
As you can see there is .002 of a difference according to my calipers… THUS the line will not fit in a standard 3/16 brake line fitting so that I can do a 37 degree flair to make everything work oh so nicely.
Yep, still at work, and yep that is an electrical band-aid!
L33 LSx 5.3 - 799 (LS6 Casting) heads, 9.5:1 Compression, and an Aluminum Block.
Got some work done today on the car…
Pulled the L33 off the shelf and put it on the stand.
Cleaned it off, and stripped it down to a long block… Going into work early in the AM to get it dressed out with the LS1 bits.
Ordered an LS7 clutch as I keep reading bad things about this spec clutch… Scoggin Dickey gave me a screaming deal on it! I even thought about tacking on an LS6 cam but I’ll save that for after the car is running.
Parts keep flowing in mostly brake fitting stuff. Can’t WAIT to be on the road!
Got a little bit of bling today from KRC and some fittings from Speedway.
KRC Steam Fittings, Speedway Hose, and Russell T Fitting
Steam vent to AN4 blocks, to then run AN line to the water pump housing. should look much better then the stock stuff.
I also got some stuff from Nook and Tranny - Alternator bracket, professional products dampener, and a tensioner.
I have slightly used spec clutch with a few miles on it. Comes compete – Clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel.
