Errrrrr maybe a sign of progress?

L33 LSx 5.3 - 799 (LS6 Casting) heads, 9.5:1 Compression, and an Aluminum Block.

Got some work done today on the car…

Pulled the L33 off the shelf and put it on the stand.

Cleaned it off, and stripped it down to a long block… Going into work early in the AM to get it dressed out with the LS1 bits.

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More parts coming in!

Ordered an LS7 clutch as I keep reading bad things about this spec clutch… Scoggin Dickey gave me a screaming deal on it! I even thought about tacking on an LS6 cam but I’ll save that for after the car is running.

Parts keep flowing in mostly brake fitting stuff. Can’t WAIT to be on the road!

Got a little bit of bling today from KRC and some fittings from Speedway.

KRC Steam Fittings, Speedway Hose, and Russell T Fitting

Steam vent to AN4 blocks, to then run AN line to the water pump housing. should look much better then the stock stuff.

I also got some stuff from Nook and Tranny - Alternator bracket, professional products dampener, and a tensioner.

I have slightly used spec clutch with a few miles on it. Comes compete – Clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel.

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Engine Dress Up!

Grabbed some Stainless Socket Head Bolts to clean up the motor.

10:6mm-1.00 x 120mm (intake manifold)
6 :8mm-1.25 x 80mm (water pump)
4 :10mm-1.5 x 35mm (idler pulley/ps pump bracket)
4 :6mm-1.00 x 20mm (coolant crossover/water neck)
4 :6mm-1.00 x 15mm (fuel rail)
2 :10mm-1.5 x 50mm (tensioner pulley bracket)
2 :10mm-1.5 x 120mm (alternator)
4 :4mm-0.7 x 16 (throttle body sensors)

button cap
3 :6mm-1.00 x 30mm (throttle body)

flat washer
12:m6

lock washer
6 :m8
7 :m10

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More Parts!

No work on my car this weekend even though I have all kinds of parts ready to make this joker drivable…

LSx Swap #2 underway in Memphis!

Instead conned Kristin into going to Eric’s and worked on his car…

Big Brown Truck came in today with the rest of my Vorshlag bits!

Steering shaft, 4 Channel ABS bracket, and the vBands and what not for the headers.

Vorshlag bits!

I also got all of my stainless hardware for bolting on the intake, accessories, and what not. so I should be getting close to having everything to get the motor into the car!

 

Throwout Bearing/Stainless Fasteners

I also found a source for AN3 to m12-1.0 adaptors So I don’t have to have 5″ worth of adapters to make it all work. I should have that stuff in by the end of the week.

Jags That Run came through quickly on my Drive Shaft flange! Woohoo!

JTR 1310 to BMW Med Case Diff

JTR makes some NICE stuff!

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Vorshlag parts have arrived!

Fair and the guys at Vorshlag sent me a nice little package today!

I got my headers, and EKnight got his entire kit!

I’m still waiting on my steering shaft and ABS bracket but I can still get the motor in the car this weekend for the final time!

 

Vorshlag Bits

Vorshlag packaged everything VERY well, headers look perfect!

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Parts have Arrived!

Got some parts in today from Speedway Motors:

Parts!
Item#
Item Description
Qty
Unit Price
Ext. Price
515139 TOOL – T56/LS1 CLUTCH LINE 1 $4.99 $4.99
51513930 30″ T56/LS1 CLUTCH LINE 1 $54.99 $54.99
5151399-36 T56 RELEASE BEARING BLEEDER 1 $29.99 $29.99
Selected Kit Components

Sku Description Quantity
91031846-3 36″ BRAKE LINE STRAIGHT 1
6174043 AN3 TO 10mm-1.5 FITTING 1
6173642 3/8,10mm CRUSH WASHER SET/5 1
8352200063 1/8″BLEED RPR/ASSY SNGL 1
6174133 1/8″NPT TO #3 BRAKE FITTING 1
6174143 #3 TO 10mm X 1.0 MALE JAPAN 2 $9.99 $19.98
4911000LS1 36″THROTTLE CABLE LS1 1 $49.99 $49.99
4915008 LOKAR DIPSTICK – LS1 CHEVY 1 $51.99 $51.99
49109899 98/99 LS1 LINKAGE CAM SINGL 1 $39.99 $39.99

 

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Large Progress Update

A lot has been going since my last post in March.

I have gone about 50 different directions….

So I’ll start with the earliest and get everyone caught up to date on everything.

02-07-2011, 12:42 PM

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=21305951&postcount=132

Apparently I have become quite proficient at getting the dash of an e36… I had it out in a little over 30 minutes.
Work Space for the day:

The new Ride!

Custom Tools for the three effing bolts in the front defrost vents:

 

Custom Tools

1 SK 7mm sock cut off so JUST the head of the bolts fit in it. 1 chinese brand wrench heated and bent with a torch to reach the drivers side bolt.

If you have never done this task… lucky you!

 

No Mas!

 

 

Black will look SO much better!

Also did some digging in the ETM and found that I can delete two of these connectors.
The X69 and the X6031 connectors can be deleted if I move pin #1 and pin #2 from the X6031 connector back to the X20 connector which in turn will bring the car back to OBDI wiring and I will not have to re-wire my harness.

 

OBDII Stupidity

Some things that found their way to my office:

 

Vette Air box

I am going to TRY to see if I can get this to go over the radiator support and use the vette style airbox.

 

We’ll see…

………………………………………………………….

05-28-2011, 11:10 PM

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=22073638&postcount=158

Turbo Dreams…

The collector needs to be moved back a little bit to clear the core support and the hot side plumbing.
The formed collectors SUCK!!! I am ordering a set of slip on collectors and running 2.5″ hot side piping to a t4 turbo flange.
A smallish T70 .92 A/R turbo has been ordedred.
Needless to say, turbo lsx e36 m3. Somehow this swap makes this much easier then I had thought. I also noticed that you can indeed use the truck manifolds flipped forward with slight modding on the drivers side. Moddification takes 10 minutes.
So yeah, that’s what I did today.

 

MemphisACC's Shots

 

MemphisACC's Shots

That’s about all I’ve got at the moment…

 

………………………………………………………….

06-24-2011, 01:29 PM

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=22230130&postcount=173

So I was mocking up the power steering system in relation to the headers… it looks as though the PS stuff from the camaro will be in the way/too close for comfort…
SO I am ditching that.
Instead, I found this very nifty controller that people are starting to use on the Factory Five GTM Kit Super Car (yes a dream build of mine complete with twin turbos).

Factory Five GTM Super Kit Car

http://www.myraceshop.com/Power_Steering_Controller.htm

[quote]This Power Steering Controller hooks up to a Corvette wheel speed sensor and provides a user programable interface to allow adjustability of power steering assist during varying driving speeds. This allows the user to have more power steering assistance when speeds are slow and the steering wheel would be harder to turn without the assistance of power steering, yet “turn down” the amount of assistance for higher speed driving where more “road feel” may be desired.
This unit must be used in conjunction with a power steering rack and pinion, as well as an electric power steering pump. Use of a Toyota MR2 pump is recommended. See Instructions below for more details. This unit requires significant custom installation abilities, and is non-returnable due to it’s electronic nature. Please be sure that you are capable and know what this job entails BEFORE ordering this unit.
Use at your own risk. No warranty or guarantee either expressed or implied. For off road use only.[/quote]

Electric Power Steering Pump Controller

Basically find a 95 MR2 electric power steering pump, use this controller and you have a very efficient way of having power steering without the hassles of having it mounted on the motor. I’ll probably throw the pump on the passengers side behind the wheel well in that little area.

Electric Power Steering Pump

Some more reading:

http://www.evdrive.com/bmw_project/PowerSteering.html

One dude’s work to getting it going: http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58599

Too bad it’s a Wrong Wheel Drive car…

 

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Freeing up Cash!

Sold my 78 280 Z and placing an order with Vorshlag by the end of the week!!!!!!

Also to note, Tongboy on bimmer forums has been very busy in his build thread. He’s working on his AC to make it functional.

Reverse lights – I found these poorly documented in the LS swap docs as well as the BMW stuff. Everyone says to pull the wires directly off the t56 but the reverse wiring already goes to one of the ls1 body harness plugs – its marked in almost all the documentation as the park neutral output – these are C230 G & J – brown & green on the manual harnesses. I ran these thru the auto trans connector to by the shifter and spliced them to the backup lights that are on the same PRNDL connector by the shifter.

Alternator warning light is straight forward – splice ecu red 15 (orange) into the x20/25 blue wire and it works great.

The AC wiring – this is something not too documented for the e36 but I finally got around to wiring it up after i’ve had the plumbing done for 6+ months now.

I used the original BMW ac compressor relay.
I also had the GM pressure sensor incorporated when I had the plumbing run.
Plumb the AC compressor wire to the stock wire that went to the original BMW AC compressor – the GM wire is bright green and goes around the harness to the compressor – also splice in GM PCM red 18 AC status wire.

GM red 43 goes to the AC relay – i believe this is x20/4 – it’s the blk/blu wire.

GM red 17 recieves the signal to turn the AC on from the BMW system – fun fact – the BMW system is a negative enable and the ls1 is a positive enable – basically – if you wire it straight through (as I have right now) you have the AC button indicated as “on” in the interior and it’s off – turn it “off” and the compressor engages – this means you need to use a polarity reversal relay like below.

Tongboy's Diagram


this wire (with relay, if you want to do it right) goes to blk/gry on the x20 – it’s either pin 5 or 6.

This leaves the bmw pressure sensor and everything in and plumbed but should not have any effect on the AC – I’m still to discover if the auto climate control tries to get in the way with the extra information it receives – I’ll report back on that.

Needless to say I am getting the itch to work on the car again and get it drivable. I’m SO close!

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Eating My Own Words…

I grabbed an LT1 T56 for an awesome price so now I am in the process of converting my T56 to an LS1 Spec T56.

This includes the following bits:

  • LS1 Bellhousing
  • LS1 Mid plate
  • LS1 Input shaft

It’s a pretty simple straight forward job, the hardest part is getting everything back into spec in terms of end play.

The reason for the return to the T56 is the ability to take abuse for my new direction on the build. A TKO would be my preference but I do not think that I can make that happen money wise.

Needless to say I have an LT1 Bellhousing, LT1 Midplate, and LT1 Input shaft forsale.


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MTree partout!

Parts:
LF Window Glass $75
LF Window Regulator $75
LF Door $150 + Shipping
RF Window Glass $75
RF Window Regulator $75
RF Door $150 + Shipping
Dove Gray Dash $75 + Shipping
95 Heater/AC control Complete working condition including knobs. $50
95 M3 Steering wheel WITH Airbag $200
Left Quarter glass with gaskets $75
Right Quarter Glass with gaskets $75
95 M3 ABS Pump $75
95 M3 ABS Computer $50
95 M3 Brake Booster and Master Cyl $125
95 M3 Clutch pedal, master cyl, and lines Will include brake pedal for manual transmission conversion. $150
Coupe Windshield Wiper Transmission $75
Coupe HVAC Heater Core/Evaporator box with ducting $75 + Shipping
Blower Motor $35
Stock Coupe Tail lights $75
Trunk Lid With LTW wing holes $100 + Shipping
Door gaskets in good condition $100
Horns $35
OBD I Coupe front end wiring harness for all lights etc. $25
Clean headliner no sagging $100 picked up
Sunvisors $35
Sunroof cassette $150 + Shipping
Sunroof Controls $50
Stripped Shell $200 picked up

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